wearsherlock:

What are pocket squares? When a handkerchief is used as an accessory to a suit it is known as a pocket square. Pocket squares come in every colour and pattern and there are a multitude of ways of folding them. They are always worn in the left breast pocket of a suit. The best fabrics for pocket squares are silk, linen and cotton. Their original use was for wiping the hands or face but since the 1920’s, when pocket squares became the height of fashion, they’ve served no other purpose than a fashion accessory.

Basic pocket square rules: It’s never good to match your pocket square with your tie but have them complement each other instead. A pocket square that picks out a minor or secondary colour in the rest of your outfit is a good choice. Contrasting textures are sure to look great, such as a silk tie and handwoven linen square. Monograms or labels should never show.

Ways of folding a pocket square: When displaying a pocket square on your person it’s best to make it look effortless and by no means perfect. Don’t ever iron a pocket square into shape! The most basic look for a square is a simple clean edge that runs parallel to your pocket. More flamboyant folding methods for example would involve having all four corners of the square protrude from the pocket or having a ‘poof’ (yes, that’s a technical term!) stick out in a curve or point. It all depends on the wearer’s personal preference.

What pocket squares say about their wearer: The confident gentlemen will usually wear a silk pocket square with a more elegant or striking pattern. Thai silk is the best quality fabric for pocket squares. Machine hemmed or irregular stitching says cheap. The finest pocket squares have hand rolled edges and should be in a tight tube. Regular and mostly hidden stitching is a sure sign of a quality square.

And now the most important part of the article!
The part on the actual character’s pocket squares.

1) The Mycroft
Mycroft wears two different pocket squares throughout the first series. The first time we see him he has folded his linen red and white paisley design into a triangular point. It is commonplace to point pocket squares away from the heart but Mycroft’s points towards his. He’s a rule breaker! In The Great Game he is wearing a red Thai silk square which has been folded to show all four corners (one of which hangs down slightly over the lip of his pocket). The red square, blue tie and white shirt combo is very British Government(!). Mycroft’s look is a confident one, using classic fabric but folding flamboyantly shows he has flair under his serious exterior.

2) The Sebastian
Sebastian’s square is my favourite in the whole series. His is an olive green and brown large paisley print that’s been classically folded but shows bulk beneath. It protrudes from his pocket quite a bit and offsets his (also striking) tie brilliantly. His pocket square is a perfect example of Sebastian’s character: showy, proud and confident.

3) The Moriarty
Moriarty’s whole look is classic. He requires no frills. He’s opted for a plain white linen square folded in the basic clean edge style that requires the least amount of effort but often looks the most smart. It’s a common look for business. His square only just shows from his pocket and really makes the skulls on his tie stand out. However, it does also show a lack of personality (and possibly a lack of confidence) and could be described by some as dull, however I can’t imagine Moriarty wearing anything but white.

Whilst writing the article I realised something. Moriarty and Mycroft wear the exact same tie pin (if you click the images to enlarge you’ll see it better). It’s a simple gold bar with a black jewel in the center. Perhaps they share the same tastes when it comes to style. Perhaps the BBC costume department just ran out of ideas!

NEXT STUDY: Ties.

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